Fabrics of Maharashtra - Paithani

Sarees have been a part of Indias culture for ages and no matter how modern the Indian woman has gotten, there is rarely one who would not be bewitched by this splendid length of garment. Saree references have been found during the Indus Valley Civilization and has also been mentioned in the Rig-veda, which is dated to be written in 3000 BC.

From daily wear to wedding trousseau, sarees have been an essential piece of clothing for the Indian woman. And even though more convenient forms of daily wear have taken over, the allure of this beautiful handloom art cannot be ignored. The paithani has been beautifully described as a poem made in silk and gold, and aptly so.

The tradition of handlooms of Maharashtra is centuries old and have seen some really glorious days in the past. Of the various styles of handlooms sarees that have been popular, very few remain to this day, and are almost fighting for survival. The advancement of machinery and powerlooms have surely affected the beautiful art of handloom weaves.

Paithani sarees, since ages had been known as precious garments, handwoven in silk and gold, for those with discerning and refined tastes and has been coveted in Maharashtra as a precious heirloom which is passed down from one generation to the next. Legend has it that in olden times the Paithani was traded in return for gold and precious stones. This truly royal fabric is still woven in the traditional ways and is renowned as the “Mahavastra” – the great, royal fabric, fit to be worn at weddings and special occasions. No wonder its been one of the most important piece in any girls wedding trousseau.

Of all the handlooms being woven in Maharashtra, Paithani remains the most well known for its intricate weaves and richness. The art of Paithani weaving is almost 2000 year old and have evolved over this period. Flourishing in the town of Paithan, from where the name also originates, the motifs and designs on Paithanis have been heavily inspired by paitnings and sculptures found in the Ajanta and Ellora caves. The earliest of the Paithani sarees were woven in the best quality cotton and then progressed to be woven in silk. The easiest way to identify a real paithani weave is to check the reverse of the weave which should exactly replicate the front design and should be void of any loose threads. That being said, a lot of jacquard work is now also incorporated to create more colourful patterns in the Paithani.

The Paithani saw many changes as various dynasties and kings rules Maharastra over the period but flourished the most as the Maratha empire took over. The Peshwa Daftar and other contemporary Maratha records are full of references to the Paithani, its golden brocade in particular and Paithani weaves on clothings like Rumal, Shela, Dupatta, Tivate, Batti, Dhoti, Khann, etc, show that the art was not limited to sarees in particular, and was a highly preferred garment by the royal men as well. Many references of orders for various Paithani garments have been found to be placed during the Maratha empire, and especially during Nanasaheb Peshwa’s period.

Even though now peacocks have become synonymous with the Paithani, so much so that a lot of ladies believe if there are no peacocks then its not a paithani, the Ajanta lotus motif was the most used on ancient paithanis. As time progressed, peacock being the beautiful bird that it is, became the most popular of the designs woven on a paithani. Floral designs have also been very popular, especially during the Peshwa times, but are also expensive to weave. While the peacock (mor), parrot (tota-maina/muniya) are well-known, some of the other designs are the Bangdi-mor (peacocks in a bangle), lotus (kamal/ajanta kamal), Asawali (vine/vel), swan (hans). The most typical lattice style woven border is known as the narali border.  Small buttas woven on a paithani also are in different shapes like paisley (kairi/kuyiri), flower, coin, star etc.

This art of weaving Paithanis was limited to Paithan city till almost the 17th century. Raghujibaba Patil, the founder of Yeola city, took along with him some families from among the expert weavers in the late 17th century from Paithan to Yeola. Besides paying them very handsome salaries, he provided them with all civic facilities. The weavers were sincere enough and devoted enough time and effort to their art and so were successful in making Yeola too a known name in textile markets. After that, Yeola Paithanis were popular next only to the Paithani Brocades of Paithan.

Another big reason for the decline of Paithani manufacturing in Paithan was the deadly attacks on the Paithan city in the late 17th century by the Pindharis. The textile industry fell prey to these brutal attacks and weavers took refuge to Yeola and other towns.

The paithanis, which were woven in gold and silver in during the times of Peshwas, were seen as a fabric fit for royalty and hence unaffordable for the commons. As times progressed and weaving techniques changed, the gold and silver zari was replaced by regular plated zari for economical reasons. The paithani though has not lost its lustre and still is as desired by every girl and woman in Maharashtra  and is also known as the “Mahavastra” – the great fabric for its royal heritage and the intricacy with which its woven. We hope this love for paithanis remain in centuries to come and we are able to carry on this tradition for many more generations.

Prices:
Paithanis in pure silk and good quality zari – begin at about Rs. 7500/- and can go up to Rs. 5L or more

To buy paithani sarees online please visit OnlyPaithani.com.

Get Groovy With Pure Silks This Diwali!

There is absolutely no need to especially highlight the importance of Diwali, when it comes to dressing up, for the Indian woman. The festive occasion itself inspires everyone to flaunt their best attires. What can be better than the good old loom woven lengths of pure silks? They are not only a treat to the eyes but also a pleasure to wrap around. Receiving guests, visiting friends and relatives adorned in heavy handloom silks surely stir in an extra bit of enjoyment to the event. Especially when people praise your choice of silk, that’s the moment of ‘sheer joy’ only a lady can understand! Alternative fashion trends come and go but the authentic handloom silk never lose its luster.

Indian handloom sarees starting from the age old Banarasi, Paithani, Kanjivaram, Chanderi, Patola and their likes have always been the most preferred ‘festive time’ sarees. Heavy golden temple borders, peacock design bootis, lotus motifs are some of the most graceful embellishments offered on authentic loom weaves. Diwali drapes demand something more than the ordinary events. It’s surely the time to flash some bright colors and gaudy drapes. If you want to know what the trending hues are this season then let us keep you informed that the general move is toward the cooler and softer side of the color spectrum. An assorted, ethereal mix of understated bright shades, bold and beautiful natural hints of green, blue and yellow is what is in demand. White, black and shades of red never go out of style. If you are the kinds who prefer the not so jazzy sarees, there’s good news for you. Onlypaithani.com has plenty of pure silk sarees in the show case that are designed without zari bootis, yet flashes a superior look.

Break away from the monotony of the everyday rigmarole and pamper yourself while the festive mood is in the air. Pair your saree with suitable accessories and the diva look comes easy the traditional way!

Indian sarees are known world over for their grandeur and extravagant display of arty traditions and that’s the reason why it is no more restricted to India during festivities but globally women have started adorning these graceful lengths of silks while the festive spirit is on.

Paithani sarees, are one of the choicest silks that India has to offer. Their splendid colors and intricate motifs suit any special occasions whether it’s Diwali, a wedding or a family get-together. Hand woven in the looms in a small town called Paithan in Aurangabad, these paithani silk sarees are made of very fine silk. The blend of silk and zari is usually woven on the principles tapestry. The most attractive Paithani sarees come with motifs like peacock, flower pot, parrot, swan and lotus designed on the pallu, border as well as bootis all over the length.

This Diwali, be a head turner with the classy conventional look adorning your pretty self with a hint of sophistication and grace. Checkout the special Diwali collection and you might just come across your dream saree!

Wardrobe Must-haves: Traditional Handloom Sarees

Saree though essentially an Indian outfit has now gone international. Almost every state in India has got something special to offer in terms of weave, designs and patterns. The classical drape has evolved over the ages and is still revolutionizing. The Indian handloom is much in vogue and is a topic of discussion in fashion circles. The different weaves and designs echo excellent artistry, fine craftsmanship the rich Indian culture.

Starting from daily wear to bridal dressing, sarees are considered an essential part of a woman’s wardrobe in many countries now. This blog post is a tribute to the different handloom pure silk sarees of India which uphold some of the most elegant designs with the warp and weft of their tradition, blending threads to create inspirational lengths of fabric.

Most of the handloom sarees across the nation can considered as ‘good to go’ in any occasion but some of them simply grab the eye balls and are best known as bridal or party wear.

Let’s just take a peek into some of the most desired occasional wear sarees which every woman would love to have in their wardrobe.

Kanjeevaraam:

Kanjeevaraam sarees have their origin in a place called Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu. These are traditionally handloom woven sarees. The sarees usually have distinct wide contrast temple borders that matches the length of body adorned with different motifs, checks or stripes. These sarees are usually woven from pure mulberry silk with motifs like peacocks, flowers, leaves, swan, mangoes and more. The price is usually determined by the intricacy of design, pattern, colour, gold or zari thread work. Kanjeevaraam sarees are usually worn on special festivals or weddings. It’s surely an essential addition to an Indian bride’s trousseau and can also be chosen as an excellent formal party wear.

Chanderi:

Chanderi weaving culture has a long trailing history. According to mythological stories this weaving started somewhere between the second and the seventh century AD. The weave is particular to Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh and are generally made from three kinds of fabrics, cotton, silk and silk cotton which combine a fine blend of both the natural fibers. The motifs that adorn these traditional sarees include flowers, coins, peacocks and different geometrical patterns. This handloom gained popularity in the thirteenth century and became a much traded fabric during the Mughal era.

The best part about Chanderi sarees are that they come in different degree of ‘dressy look’. The lighter designs woven in cotton or silk can be worn for formal parties or occasions like festivities. The heavier designs on silk may be an ideal drape during weddings.

Banarasi:

Banarasi sarees are most probably the best known bridal sarees. These drapes were originally woven exclusively for the royal families. These were length of fabrics woven from pure silk and real gold and silver thread. The weaving of one saree took as long as an entire year to be completed. Marked by their exemplary artistry, Banarasi sarees can be chosen from a range of Jamdani, cutwork, butidar, vaskat, jangla, tanchoi and the tissue. These silk drapes are considered as one of the perfect wedding sarees even today.

Patola:

The Patola sarees originate from Patan in Gujarat. This weave was once considered to be distinctly for the autocracy but later on became a favourite with the Gujrati women. The motifs which usually adorn these sarees include flowers, dancing figures, parrots, elephants and geometrical designs.

In the modern parlance, Patola sarees are regarded as excellent party wear and a must have for a brides trousseau.

Paithani:

Paithani sarees are typical to a small town Paithan, in Maharashtra. These are essentially silk sarees with a traditional peacock motif and some golden work with either zari or silk thread. These dressy drapes are now available in a variety of colour combinations with multiple motifs like lotus, swans and geometric patterns. Great as wedding sarees, Paithani's are considered to be the richest saree weave of Maharashtra.

Whatever may be the weave, colour or style of the handloom silk sarees, they will always remain in fashion reflecting the grand cultural heritage of India.

Visit us at http://onlypaithani.com

OnlyPaithani - the inspiration

Centuries ago, in India, the art of weaving royal fabrics originated from a very ancient and popular city known as Supratishthapuram, and had a silken cloth brocaded with golden threads. The city is today known as Paithan, giving fabric its name, Paithani.

However, over the years, with the advance of Power looms and synthetic fabrics which come at a much cheaper price, this traditional art kind of took a back seat. The town of paithan which used to be the known as the Capital of Art started losing its luster to modern times.

Fortunately, a few, true connoisseurs of art helped revive the centuries old Paithani tradition, worked with the few expert weavers and brought back to good life this rich but fading art of India.

We, through OnlyPaithani.com, intend to reach to the world  and give them a feel of what the Indian art of paithani is all about. We bring you the best hand made pieces of Paithani, which like its said is nothing less than a poem woven in silk and gold.

About the Paithani:

The paithani is essentially a sari, hand woven in silk and gold thread with traditional motifs decorating the pallu and border.


Known as a poem, that is hand woven in silk and gold, Paithani Sarees are for those with discerning and refined taste. The art of weaving Paithani flourished in 200B.C., during Satvahana era and since then Paithani is coveted in India as a precious heirloom passing on from generation to generation. Exquisite silk from Paithani was exported to many countries and was traded in return for gold and precious stones. Sheer dedication and the faith of the weavers has kept alive Paithani silk work for more than 2000 years.

Intricate designs on pallu and border is a speciality of Paithani Sarees. Motifs on pallu are generally peacock, lotus, mango and other designs inspired from the world famous Ajanta Caves, which are in the same district.

Paithani Sarees can take between 2 months to 2 years to manufacture, depending on border, pallu design and the material used. A paithani would cost any where from Rs. 6,000/- which would have normal and less complex designs but can go upto Rs. 5,00,000/- which would not only have very rare and intricate designs but would also be woven with real gold and silver threads. The fabric woven in traditional ways even after many centuries is renowned as the “MAHAVASTRA” meaning "the great, royal fabric, fit to be worn for ones own wedding. No wonder then, It has long been an essential piece in any girls wedding trousseau.

Visit us on http://OnlyPaithani.com to be a part of this tradition.